Method of knitting



Sept 5, 1944 7 R. E. DAVIS METHOD 0F KNITTING Filed Nowr. 23, 1957 @wif mlIIllIIlllIllllllllllllllllllllllll1 @E4 @l llllll'l; "Izlllllllllllllll||||IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII INVENTOR ROBERT E.YDA\/|S.

ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 5, 1944 'UNITED STATE METHOD F KNITTING Robert Evan Davis, Fort Payne, Ala., assignor to W. B. Davis & Son, Inc., Fort Payne, Ala., a corporation of Alabama l Application November 23, 1937, Serial No. 176,032

2 Claims.

of making such articles.

In the manufacture of knitted wear it has been found that, inasmuch as the portions of the body vary considerably in diameter and contour, it is necessary to either shape certain portions of the article accordingly or provide increased elasticity of portions of the article. In the case of hosiery, for example, the calf portions of the legs of different people vary in diameter much more than the ankles and it is necessary to form the upper portion of the leg of the stocking, sock or half hose of a much more elastic fabric than is usually desirable for the lower portion of the leg or foot in order to insure a snug fit on the leg. 1

It has been customary in knitting half hose to form the top or' cuff portion of rib knit fabric in order tof provide the desired increased elasticity and knit the leg and foot of plain knit fabric to secure the desired fineness of texture and neatness of appearance.

In knitting seamless hosiery, the top portion of a stocking is knit on a rib knitting machine and is then transferred to a plain knitting machine. This transferring operation consists in Aplacing a course of stitches of the rib top upon the needles of the plain knitter, each stitch in the course being placed over a single needle of the latter. The plain knitting machine is then started and the remainder of the leg of the stocking is knit onto the rib top and the knitting continued until the foot is completed. This transferring operation is performed manually and requires skilled operators, which greatly adds to the cost of the manufacture of the stocking.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a stocking such asa mans half hose, for example, is formed with a top constituted by essentially plain knit fabric, which may be uniform with the other portions of the leg, and having incorporated therein an elastic thread which provides the desired shaping and elasticity of this portion of the stocking. The top preferably is formed by attaching the elastic in a plurality of selected and preferably separated circular courses at spaced points in each course, the elastic being floated on the inner face of the fabric between such spaced points. The elastic 1 is attached at the spaced points bya knitting stitch wherein 'a loop of the elastic is drawn through a loop of regular or inelastic thread and the latter cast off the needle; the loop of elastic.

receives therethrough the corresponding'loop of inelastic vthread of the succeeding course.

The elastic thread preferably is continuous throughout the selected, spaced courses and is fed under a predetermined tension, sov that, when the top section of the stocking is completed, each of the floated portions of the elastic thread being shorter than the corresponding portion of fabric between the spaced points of attachment will draw the fabric together producing throughout the top a series of bulges orpuckers. By suitably locating the points of attachment of the elastic thread and suitably tensioning the elastic thread, there can be produced throughout the top a series of parallel, vertical ridges of the 'plain knit Afabric between the separated stitches which provides both the function 'and general appearance of the usual ribbed top.

The present invention permits the production of a stocking, sock or other garment knit entirely of plain knit fabric on a single machine, thus dispensing with the usual cost and maintenance of the rib knitting machines and doing away entirely with the cost of transferring." Moreover,

the plain knitting machines can be operated more nearly continuously and more efliciently and with less personal attention than where a rib top must be transferred before eachplain knitter can be operated.

It will be seen that by this invention any desired degree of elasticity can be imparted to the top by regulating the tension of the elastic thread and the size of the plain knit stitches, thus permitting the stocking or sock to be drawn over the foot and insuring a neat and satisfactory formfit of the top regardless of variations in the size of the leg of the wearer. The tension of the Ielastic thread may be 'such that in addition to providing the snug form fit, the top will embrace the leg with suicient pressure to as sist in retaining itself in position on the leg and prevent the leg portion of the stocking from slipping or working downwardly when in position.

It will also be understood that the manner of incorporation of the elastic thread provides a series of spaced, substantially 'parallel beads or ridges extending transversely of the top and projecting slightly from the inner faces of the fabric, which beads lor ridges directly engage and very slightly'indent the body of the wearer with very slight pressure and thus assist in maintaining the stocking in position. The elastic threads are distributed over so large an area that these ridges will support the leg of the stocking with a minimum of tension which is not even felt by the wearer and causes no discomfort or inconvenience.

In carrying out the invention any suitable form of elastic thread may be employed, for example,

a thread of bare rubber, or a thread composed of rubber and fibrous material, such as the well known Lastex.

If it is desired to form a mock seam in the hose, the mock seam may be formed in that portion of the fabric adjacent the portions of elastic thread which extend lfrom the termination of one elastic carrying course to the beginning of the next elastic carrying course, and the seam may be employed if desired to anchor the adjacent carrying portions of the elastic thread to prevent displacement o f the latter relative to thefabric.

Various other features and advantages' of the invention will be apparent from the following particular description and from an inspection of the accompanying drawing.

Although the novel features which are believed to be characteristic of this invention will be particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto, the invention itself, as to its objects and advantages, and the manner in which it may be carried out, maybe better understood by referring to the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing forming a part thereof, in which:

Fig. 1 is a side elevational view of a half hose fabricated according to the teachings of the invention;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged, fragmentary view of a portion of the hose shown in Fig. l and illustrating particularly the arrangement of the elastic thread, the shading of the ribs being omitted for the purposes of clarity;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of vthe fabric illustrating the manner in `which the elastic thread is incorporated in the fabric, the inelastic and'elastic threads being shown in abnormal positions for the purposes of illustration;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of fabric showing the threads in more or less normal positions vafter the elastic thread straightens out under its tension; and

Fig. 5 is an enlarged, fragmentary, and somewhat diagrammatic, view of a cross-section taken along line 5-5 of Fig. 2, the inelastic threads of the fabric being indicated only Vin a general way, except Where they engage over the elastic thread.

In the following description and in the claims, various details will be identified by specific names for convenience, but they are intended to be as generic in their application as the art will permit. Like reference characters denote like parts in the several figures of the drawing. l

In the drawing accompanying and forming part of this specification, certain specific disclosure of the invention is made for purposes of explanation, but it will be understood that the details may be modified in various respects without departure from the broad aspect of the invention.

For the purposes of illustrationthe invention is disclosed in connection with its application to a half hose, but it is to be understood that the invention may be applied to other articles of apparel having a tubular portion adapted to surround or engage a portion of the body of the wearer, and to types of fabric `other than the specific type disclosed.

Referring now to Fig. l, the half hose is formed with a top I in a manner which will hereinafter be more fully described, the top preferably being formed of plain knit seamless fabric and drawn into a series of parallel longitudinally extending rib-like ridges 2 by the elastic threads 5 (see Fig. 2). The top may be finished at its upper edge 3 with a hem, welt, selvage or in any other suitable manner. The sock has also a leg 4 which may be formed in the usual manner of plain knit fabric and which is integral with the top l and a foot 'l which also may be formed of plain knit fabric in the usual manner .and provided with the usual heel and toe pockets.

Secured to the top I is an elastic thread 5 which extends around the top in a series of spaced, substantially parallel turns or courses. 'I'he elastic thread 5 is knitted into the top at a plurality of wales I0, preferably equally spaced, for example, in courses B, E, H, etc., hereinafter designated as the spaced or elastic-carrying courses. Each portion 6 of the elastic thread 5 is floated on the inside of the fabric between successive of the spaced wales ll), and has a normal length, when unstretched, which is less than that of the adjacent fabric lying between spaced wales l0, and hence the adjacent portion of the fabric is caused to bulge outwardly. If the elastic thread 5 is knitted into the same wales in each of the spaced courses, and if the diameter of the threads, the spacing between wales and the spacing between courses are suitably chosen, the bulges adjacent each floated portion 6 unite with the' bulges above and below to constitute a series of continuous parallel rib-like ridges, indicated by the reference character 2 in Figs. 1, 2 and 5.

The elastic thread 5 is carried from the Wale Illa in each of the elastic-carrying courses to the Wale l0b in the succeeding elastic-carrying course, whereby the portions 8 of the elastic thread which are carried between successive elastic-carrying courses are disposed in substantial alignment lengthwise of the top. Since the elastic thread 5 is preferably incorporated under tension, the normal length of the portions 8 is less than the normal length of the fabric between the wales Illa and l0b and the latter is bulged out to form a ridge 40, which in certain cases may be substantially the same as the other ridges 2. V

The hose shown in Fig. 1 may be formed in several different manners, but preferably is formed on a circular knitting machine having a suitable construction; for example, a machine of the Banner, Scott & Williams or Standard type may be employed.

The hose may be started in the usual manner and preferably one or more plain knit courses of inelastic thread I2 are knit. When the first of the spaced or elastic courses B is reached, the inelastic thread I2 is fed to all of the needles and knit in the usual manner. Thereafter, the elastic thread 5 is fed to selected needles (for example, every fourth needle) preferably at a. point suitably removed'around the knittingcircle from the knitting point for the inelastic thread, by a suitable thread feed device and needle selecting device, such asa retractable cam. Each selected needle is actu-ated to draw a loop 0f elastic thread through the corresponding -loop of the last inelastic course and to cast off the loop of inelastic thread, whereby to form a'true loop-through-loop stitch of elastic thread at the selected wales Ill. The non-selected needles are not actuated to perform a knitting movement and hence retain their respective loops of inelastic thread.

- After the elastic thread is knitted atspaced stitches, as described, the needles again successively approach the first knittingpoint'. Inelastic thread -I2 is fed to all of the needles and they are actuated to draw loops of inelastic thread. The selected needles, which carry loops of elastic thread, l now draw loops of inelastic thread through the elastic loops and cast ofi the latter. The remaining (non-selected) needles, which carry the retained loops of inelastic thread, draw loops of inelastic thread through the said rei tained loops and cast off the latter.

Thus, it will be understood that the operation consists, in eifect in the knitting of a series of plain knit courses of inelastic thread, spaced -stitches of the inelastic thread in spaced courses being replaced by stitches of elastic thread. The

elastic thread is knitted into the. fabric at the the drawing. In Fig. 3 the threads are shown in the positions which they lwould assume if the elastic thread were knitted under no tension and .g i the inelastic thread were not resilient and not contracted. As the elastic is knit under tension, it straightens out when the course containing it leaves the needles of the knitting machine and the fabric assumes substantially the form shown in Fig, 4,. the portions of inelastic thread which engage the elastic thread being somewhat distorted. It will be understood that the exact form assumed by the threads will depend somewhat upon various factors, such -as size of threads, tenspaced stitches in a loop-through-loop formation and forms a loop in the chain constituting each of the selected wales I0, and oats on the back of the fabric between the spaced stitches.

'Ihe elastic thread is fed to the selected needles preferably under a predetermined tension whereby, when the hose is finished, the normal length of each oated portion in the fabric is less than the length of the corresponding portion of the fabric, and the latter is bulged out into a ridge plain courses of inelastic thread I2 may be knit.

in the usual manner and without incorporating the elastic thread. Thereafter, the next elastic carrying course E is knit in a manner similar to the elastic carrying course B, and further inelastic courses F, G, etc. are knit. fThe above operations are repeated until a top of predetermined length is formed, whereupon the elastic I thread is no longer fed but the machine is continued in operation to knit the leg portion 6 in .the usual manner with inelastic thread I2 only.

The foot 1, including heel portion, foot portion proper, and toe portion are knit in the usual order in suitable manner, without removingthe hose from the machine. After completion, the

hose-may be removed and the toe joining effected in the usual manner.

The carry or float 8 betweenthe wale |00. at the end of one elastic carrying course andthe wale Illb at the beginning of the next elastic carrying course may be floated on the inner face of the fabric as indicated in Fig. 2, or may be attached to the fabric at intermediate points if desired. Where a cam arrangement is employed to select needles for knitting in the .elastic thread, it may be necessary to take a plurality of stitches in order to permit the movement of the cam' into engagement with the needle butts or Jacks.

The top 3 of the hose may be finished in anyv suitable manner as by a known knitting operatlonlat the beginning of the top. However, if desired, the top may be finished by a sewed welt or by the use of an edger, in' a manner which is known to those skilled in the art. Since the manner of finishing the top forms no part of the present invention, no specific disclosure is made herein.

The fabric formed by the operations, above described, employed in forming the top, is shown somewhat dlagrammatically in Figs. 3 and 4 of u 'sion under which the threads' are knit, spacing of thespaced stitches and soforth.

Referring particularly to Figs. 3 and 4, it will be seen that the inelastic thread I2 is plain knit to form the usual wales 9, Illy andv II, and the usual courses A to H, except at the selected stitches.v The elastic thread 5 is knitted into the Wale I0 of the course B by drawing the loop 25 of elastic thread 5 'through the loop I5 of inelastic thread in course B at Wale IIJ. The elastic thread 5 extends as a float 6 on the inner face of the fabric to the next point of incorporation wherein it is again incorporated by drawing the loop of Aelastic thread through the loop of inelastic thread in a manner described. Thus, it Will'be seen that the elastic thread is knitted into the fabric by a loop-through-Ioop formation at the spaced points and floats between these points.

When the next' course C of inelastic threadis knitted, the loops are drawn through the loops of the preceding course B in the usual manner of knitting until the Wale Ill is reached.- Since the loop of inelastic thread of the .preceding course B was previously knocked off this needle by the drawing of the loop 25 of elastic thread and the loop 25 of elastic thread was hooked by the needle, the loop 35 of inelastic thread in the course B will be drawn through the loop 25 of elastic thread, as shown in Fig. 3, whereby the loop 25 of elastic thread forms a link in the chain of needle loops forming the waleIIJ.

Referring to Fig. 4, the elastic thread 5 is preferably knitted into the fabric under tension so that wheriithe fabric is completed and removed ens out and draws the portions of inelastic thread 36 and 31, which form the needle loop 35, and the adjacent sinker loops 38 and 39 up through the'loop I5 of inelastic thread. Since the elastic thread 5 has been knitted into the fabric, the fabric does not unknit when the elastic thread straightens. out but merely is distorted at this point.

It will be seen that the elastic thread 5 passes in front (as viewed in Fig. 4) of the sides I 6 and I1 of the loop I5 and behind the portions 36 and 31 of loop 35, whereby the elastic thread is connected to the fabric as shown in Fig. 4

-and becomes .a part of it. The bottom of the and the projections or nodules formed by the incorporation of the elastic thread exert a frictlonal and gripping effect on the skin which serve to support the sock in position.

Furthermore, the tension of the elastic thread when the article is in position may be such that the top exerts a gripping action on the' body of the wearer to assist in maintaining the position of the sock. Owing to the gripping action of the projections and ridges, however, this tension may be made so light as to be scarcely noticeable and the sock will still be retained in proper position.

'I'he elastic thread is knitted into the `fabric under controlled tension, so that, when the fabric is completed and permitted to assume its natural position, the portion 6 of elastic thread 5 which is floated between spaced wales I is substantially less 4 than the adjacent portion of the fabric.

Since the elastic thread 5 is gripped at the spaced wales I0 between the loops of inelastic thread,

the spaced. wales I0 are drawn toward one another and the fabric is caused to bulge outwardly adjacent, each floated portion 6. 'I'he spacing betweenthe wales I0 and between successive of the spaced courses may be so selected that the bulges in the fabric adjacent each floated portion are in longitudinal alignment and merge to constitute continuous rib-like ridges 2.

The ridge 40 formed by the iioats 8 of elastic thread 5 is preferably located at the center at the back of the stocking, where it is less conspicuous. Where this ridge is wider than the ridges 2 it may provide means for readily creasing the hose when the latter is pressed. The portion 40 provides a natural fold point in the fabric and permits the same to be folded and pressed in the usual manner without undue tendency to resi-st folding.

If desired, the hose may be provided with a p mock seam formed by gathering a portion of the hose extending in a longitudinal direction and by stitching the same with a known type of chain stitch, such as formed on a Merrow or Wilcox 8l Gibbs machine to simulate a full fashioned hose.

Preferably, the mock seam will be formed in the portion 40 which in many cases will improve the appearance of this' portion o f the hose, Also, the floated portions 8 of the elastic thread may be included in the seam and thus the'elastic thread will be furtherheld against displacement.

Preferably, the elastic thread is introduced into the fabric at the same timeor just prior to the' stitch of the wale lla and is withdrawn at the same time or just after theknitting'of the stitch of the Wale IIb whereby the end portions of the elastic thread 5 constitute the flrst and last of the carried portions 8. Thus, when a mock seam is formed, as above described,-the end portions are securely tied into the fabric. If desired, however, the end portions may -be tied into the fabric in other .mannersas. by suitable stitching operation on a stitching machine or by tying the ends in a known manner. Owing to the fact that the elastic thread is knit into the fabric and is. therefore, locked into the fabric, in many cases it is not necessary to provide any special arrangement for retaining the ends of the elastic thread, but it will be frictionally held by the fabric at the Wale I0 nearest the end of the elastic thread.

This invention is suitable for application to many types of fabrics and articles, for example: hosiery, such as stockings, half hose, anklets and footless hosiery; handwear, such as smitten-s, gloves and wristlets; body wear, such as sweaters, trousers, drawers, pajamas, swimming suits; other articles for which the invention is suitable; and other fabrics to whichl it is desired to impart the properties provided by the invention.

The invention contemplates the use of either uncovered elastic thread, such as bare rubber,

' or covered elastic thread, such as the thread known commercially as Lastex wherein a rubber cord is surrounded with a sheath of inelastic fibres, or other suitableelastic threads.

By knitting the elastic threads into spaced wales in each of a plurality of spaced courses, and suitably selecting the relationship between the character of the threads, the diameter of the threads, the spacing between wales, the spacing between courses, the tension on the threads, and the length of the stitches, it is possible to form various relief patterns. For example, the fabric may be provided with continuous, parallel rib-like ridges extending vertically of the hose (as above described), staggered ridges, spaced nodules and other designs.

Inasmuch as vthe elastic thread is knitted in the fabric at spaced' courses and spaced wales, it

is possible to obtain an elastic fabric which is not substantially less elastic than the fabric would be without the elastic thread, and also which is not substantially less porous. Since the fabric is highly elastic and porous, and since a very high frictional effect may be provided by the suitable spacing of the turns of elastic thread, most of which are usually in direct engagement with' the body, it is possible to provide an article which will firmly grip the body and supportitself inthe desired manner without any appreciable discomfort on the part of the wearer. A further provision for comfort may be made by variably spacing the elastic carrying courses throughout the self-supporting portion. The spacing between the elastic carrying courses may be greater in those portions of the articles adapted to fit the portions of the body which are of greater diameter and lesser in. those portions adapted to fit the smaller portions of the body. Hence, the pressures exerted on the various portions of the body may be substantially equalized.

It will be understood that theinvention Ais not limited to use with any particular type of fabric-forming thread, but may be practiced with various kinds of thread, for example, cotton, silk, wool and the like, and with various sizes of threads. It is also within the contemplation of the invention to employ several fabric threads of .different characteristics either in succession or simultaneously to provide portions of varying characteristics, or varying' patterns.

It is to be noted that where the expression inelastic thread or non-elastic thread'? is employed, it is vto be vread as a distinguishing expression to point out the inelasticity of the thread customarily used in garments as compared to the elasticity of the elastic threads, such as india rubber threads, ,Lastex and the like.

In the claims reference, is made to alternate with respect to needles; by alterna it is not intended to limit the invention to' every other. This application is a ycontinuation-impart of my copending applications, Serial No. 759,831,

led December 31, 1934, and Serial`No. 28,463, filed June 26, 1935, now Patent No. 2,306,246, dated December 22, 1942.

While certain novel features of have been disclosed and are pointed out in the annexed claims, it will be understood that various omissions. substitutions and changes may .be

made by those skilled in thev art without departing from the spirit of the invention. I

What is claimed is: 1. A method of knitting a stocking top on a circular knitting machine and including knitting a relatively inelastic thread at one feeding station and knitting a relatively-.elastic thread at the inventionanother' feeding `station and under a light tension only so that the elastic thread is engaged in the hooks of alternate Aneedles and at the back of intermediate needles adjacent to the completed fabric.

ROBERT EVAN DAVIS. 

